Exciting news!NEW LOCATION!! Our friends at the Gastronomy program at Boston University have offered the Culinary Historians of Boston a home while the Schlesinger Library is being renovated. Thanks go to Megan Elias, Director of the Gastronomy Program, and Barbara Rotger, Manager of the Gastronomy Program, for their generous hospitality. Many of us have attended programs at BU, so we know how welcoming everyone is there. We’ll provide more details in the weeks to come, but here is information on the first two meetings so you can mark your calendars now.
The initial Culinary Historians programs will take place in Boston University’s Fuller Building, 808 Commonwealth Avenue, Room 109. The building is located at the intersection of Commonwealth Avenue and Essex Street, across from the BU bridge. The entrance is on Essex Street. If you’re coming on the T, take the Green Line B train to BU West and walk up to Essex Street. If you’re driving, there are often parking spaces on the street and there is also reasonable priced garage parking nearby. Here is a link to hourly guest parking at BU lots: http://www.bu.edu/parking/lots-locations/family-guests-and-visitor-parking.
If you grew up in New England, you’ve probably eaten and loved peanut butter and Marshmallow Fluff sandwiches. Known as “fluffernutters”, they were a childhood favorite and lunchbox regular for many of us when we were youngsters. They consisted of peanut butter and Marshmallow Fluff on plain white bread. And they tasted great. Marshmallow Fluff was invented in Somerville and then produced in Lynn. When it was introduced in 1917, it was called “Toot Sweet Marshmallow Fluff”. The first two words were later dropped. Our December speaker Mimi Graney has not only written a book about the sweet treat called Marshmallow Fluff: The Sticky Sweet Story of an American Icon, but she also founded Somerville’s “What the Fluff?” festival in its honor. Among the festival foods are such creations as Fluff ice cream and even Fluff cocktails. At our December meeting, she’ll tell us all about the sweet creation and its impact on America
From the Algonquin to Elaine’s, from the Minetta Tavern to the Monkey Bar, native New Yorker and BU alum Delia Cabe visited New York bars past and present to write about the literary patrons who found inspiration in them. In her book Storied Bars of New York she writes about such authors as Arthur Miller, Dorothy Parker, Walt Whitman, and Ernest Hemingway and their favorite bars and cocktails. Come to the meeting and learn how Jay McInery likes his martini and all about the Gramercy Park bar where O. Henry was inspired to write “The Gift of the Magi.” Cheers!
During the thirty-year boom in France following World War II, Paris was not only the world’s most stylish tourist destination, it was also the world capital of gastronomic genius. Justin Spring’s The Gourmands’ Way is the true story of six American writer/adventurers - A. J. Liebling, Alice B. Toklas, M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, Alexis Lichine, and Richard Olney - having the time of their lives in the City of Light during this period and, in doing so, forever transforming the way Americans talk and think about food—and the way we eat. Join us for Mr. Spring’s spirited tour through the fabled world of French haute cuisine and the vibrant bohemian and artistic haunts of the Left Bank during the 1950s. Justin Spring is a writer specializing in twentieth-century American art and culture and the author of two previous biographies: Fairfield Porter: A Life in Art (Yale, 1999) and Secret Historian: The Life and Times of Samuel Steward (Farrar, Straus, 2011.) Advance ticket purchase is required.
Preservation Society Members $10 / General Public $15
Boston was once a hub of candy making. From Baker’s and Lowney’s Chocolate companies to Necco wafers to Squirrel Nut Zippers, which were caramel and peanut candies
before they were a jazz band, all sorts of sweets were made in the Boston area.
On Wednesday, October 17, Rhea Becker, a journalist (People magazine, The Tab, Boston Globe) and Jamaica Plain resident, who grew up sampling the wares in her father's candy store.
She will tell us all about candy’s prominent place in Boston area history. Bring your sweet tooth. Candy tasting after the talk.
Tuesday, September 11 2018, @ 6:00pm Room 109 Fuller Building, Boston University: Claudia Kousoulas will introduce her book Bread & Beauty: A Year in Montgomery County’s Agricultural Reserve, and discuss the traditional foods she discovered there.
Just as the force and flow of ancient glaciers deposited soil and shaped hills, our decisions about property, policy, family, and food also shape the landscape. So much of what we value—a clean environment, local food, a diverse landscape, and a varied economy—comes together in Montgomery County’s Agricultural Reserve. The Reserve is the result of vision and hard work, and is adapting as it moves into a new generation. Beyond seasonal farm visits to pick apples or cut a Christmas tree, the Reserve needs policy and public support. Farming isn’t antique, it is current and vital to our future... More than just a cookbook, Bread & Beauty: A Year in Montgomery County’s Agricultural Reserve traces some of the Reserve’s history, but also the contemporary challenges faced by family farms trying to establish a new generation, new farmers seeking land and markets, and the shared community efforts required to preserve this special place.
Every day, noodle shops around the globe ladle out quick meals that fuel our go-go lives. But Ken Albala has a mission: to get YOU in the kitchen making noodle soup. This primer offers the recipes and techniques for mastering quick-slurper staples and luxurious from-scratch feasts. Albala made a different noodle soup every day for two years. His obsession yielded all you need to know about making stock bases, using dried or fresh noodles, and choosing from a huge variety of garnishes, flavorings, and accompaniments. He lays out innovative techniques for mixing and matching bases and noodles with grains, vegetables, and other ingredients drawn from an international array of cuisines. In addition to recipes both cutting edge and classic, Alabala describes new soup discoveries he created along the way. There's advice on utensils, cooking tools, and the oft-overlooked necessity of matching a soup to the proper bowl. Finally, he sprinkles in charming historical details that cover everything from ancient Chinese millet noodles to that off-brand Malaysian ramen at the back of the ethnic grocery store. Filled with more than seventy color photos and one hundred recipes, A World of Noodle Soup is an indispensable guide for cooking, eating, and loving a universal favorite.
Tuesday, March 27 2018, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Sonya and Gabrielle Rossmer and Sonya Gropman who will talk about their new book on
Sonya Gropman & Gabrielle Rossmer Gropman recently co-wrote the only cookbook about German-Jewish food:The German-Jewish Cookbook: Recipes and History of a Cuisine (HBI Series on Jewish Women) This cookbook features recipes for German-Jewish cuisine as it existed in Germany prior to World War II, and as refugees later adapted it in the United States and elsewhere. Because these dishes differ from more familiar Jewish food, they will be a discovery for many people. With a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients, this indispensable collection of recipes includes numerous soups, both chilled and hot; vegetable dishes; meats, poultry, and fish; fruit desserts; cakes; and the German version of challah, Berches. These elegant and mostly easy-to-make recipes range from light summery fare to hearty winter foods. The Gropmans—a mother-daughter author pair—have honored the original recipes Gabrielle learned after arriving as a baby in Washington Heights from Germany in 1939, while updating their format to reflect contemporary standards of recipe writing.
Laura Shapiro was a columnist at The Real Paper(Boston) before beginning a 16-year run at Newsweek, where she covered food, women’s issues and the arts and won several journalism awards. Her essays, reviews and features have also appeared in The New Yorker, The New York Times, Conde Nast Traveler, Gourmet, Gastronomica, Slate and many other publications. Her first book was Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century (1986), which the University of California Press has reissued with a new Afterword. She is also the author of Something from the Oven: Reinventing Dinner in 1950s America (Viking, 2004), and Julia Child(Penguin Lives, 2007), which won the award for Literary Food Writing from the International Association of Culinary Professionals in 2008. Her work is represented in the Library of America’s American Food Writing, The Virago Book of Food, and Best Food Writing 2002. She is a frequent speaker and panelist on culinary history, and contributed a regular column on a wide range of food topics to gourmet.com, the Gourmet magazine website. During 2009-10 she was a fellow at the Cullman Center for Scholars and Writers at the New York Public Library. In June 2012, the New York Public Library opened an exhibition called Lunch Hour NYC, co-curated by Shapiro and Rebecca Federman of the NYPL. Read Edward Rothstein’s review in the New York Times Here. For more information about the exhibition, click Here. More recently, Shapiro was featured in Michael Pollan’s Netflix documentary series Cooked (2016).
Tuesday, January 9 2018, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: John F. Carafoli will speak on the Great Italian American Food in New England:
John F. Carafoli is an author, consultant, blogger and internationally know food stylist. After graduating from The School of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, he was an art director/designer and creative director for advertising agencies and publishers in Chicago. Returning to his East Coast roots, he began a career in food writing and food styling, starting with the Boston Globe.
John will describe his exploration of the Italian enclaves in New England and the evolution of Italian-American cuisine through profiles of the people, places, and communities and interviews with local chefs, pizzeria owners, butchers, and specialty shops purveyors. Alongside these stories will be a mix of historical and modern photos as well as classic recipes passed down through generations and from establishments that still thrive today. Part historical record, part travelogue, part cookbook,his talk will provide a fascinating glimpse into the region's rich Italian heritage as depicted in his book: Great Italian American Food in New England: History, Traditions & Memories.
ATTENTION!!!!! The Culinary HIstorians Meeting for Tuesday December 12will be at: 40 Concord Avenue, which is a short walk from Radcliffe Yard.
This is a Victorian house in a quad of houses, the Bunting Quadrangle, that belongs to Radcliffe.
40 Concord has a Harvard permit-only parking lot which can be used in the evening by outsiders.
People who come on the subway will be able to walk there from Harvard Square, but it will be a little longer distance.
Tuesday, December 12 2017, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library
Keith Stavely and Kathleen Fitzgerald will speak about their new book:
The Library of Congress has designatedAmerican Cookery(1796) by Amelia Simmons one of the eighty-eight "Books That Shaped America." Its recognition as "the first American cookbook" has attracted an enthusiastic modern audience of historians, food journalists, and general readers, yet until nowAmerican Cookeryhas not received the sustained scholarly attention it deserves. Keith Stavely and Kathleen Fitzgerald'sUnited Tastesfills this gap by providing a detailed examination of the social circumstances and culinary tradition that produced this American classic.
Situating American Cookery within the post-Revolutionary effort to develop a distinct national identity, Stavely and Fitzgerald demonstrate the book's significance in cultural as well as culinary terms. Ultimately the separation between these categories dissolves as the authors show that the formation of "taste," in matters of food as well as other material expressions, was essential to building a consensus on what it was to be American. United Tastes explores multiple histories—of food, cookbooks, printing, material and literary culture, and region—to illuminate the meaning and affirm the importance of America's first cookbook.
Tuesday, November 28 2017, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Claire Cheney who will give a talk on the history of spices.
Claire Cheney founded Curio Spice Co in 2015. She is an adventurous, self-taught cook who has traveled throughout the world. Over the last decade she has visited spice farms and communities in over 12 countries sourcing the best spices to bring back to her native New England. She is passionate about the need to only source sustainably grown spices. Visit Claire's blog, Aromatum to learn more.
She will bring along spices and her spice mixtures to accompany the talk.
Tuesday, October 17 2017, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Joel Denker will discuss The Carrot Purple and other Curious Stories of the Food we Eat.
How many otherwise well-educated readers know that the familiar orange carrot was once a novelty? It is a little more than 400 years old. Domesticated in Afghanistan in 900 AD, the purple carrot, in fact, was the dominant variety until Dutch gardeners bred the young upstart in the seventeenth century. After surveying paintings from this era in the Louvre and other museums, Dutch agronomist Otto Banga discovered this stunning transformation. Joel Denker will discuss this story and many more from his book The Carrot Purple and Other Curious Stories of the Food We Eat (Rowman & Littlefield Studies in Food and Gastronomy)
Tuesday, Sept 5 2017, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Jennifer Baumwoll will talk about the new non profit cookbook by UNDP:Adaptive Farms Resilient Tables
As the world gets hotter and rainfall more erratic, the type and availability of ingredients for daily meals are changing.
With support from the Government of Canada and the Global Environment Facility’s Least Developed Countries Fund, the Canada-UNDP Climate Change Adaptation Facility (CCAF) has been supporting six least developed countries and small island developing states (Cabo Verde, Cambodia, Haiti, Mali, Niger and Sudan) to strengthen climate resilience and enhance food security.
The “Adaptive Farms Resilient Tables” cookbook features traditional recipes from these six diverse countries all engaged in the CCAF. This innovative publication examines how climate change is impacting the food supplies of vulnerable people, and how these people are changing the types of food they grow and eat. It celebrates the people and places that are producing, preparing and consuming food in these countries, as the climate is changing, and provides lessons from their adaptation experiences.
In addition to 18 recipes, the cookbook also includes information on issues of food security and water scarcity, compares crops and culinary cultures across countries, and highlights the connection with the global Sustainable Development Goals.
Tuesday, May 16 2017, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Elizabeth Andoh from Japan will guide us through a thousand years of Japan’s culinary history seeking out the origins and contemporary configurations of Japan’s beloved rice bundles: omusubi and onigiri..
May 16 CHB meeting will take place in the Sheerr Room (that’s not a typo – two r’s), Fay House, Radcliffe Yard!
OMUSUBI & ONIGIRI
An ancient food that’s still the single most popular item at modern convenience
stores, Japan’s rice bundles can be found tucked into lunch boxes everywhere.
Whether formed into classic triangles, cute pandas or pressed into colorful
layers the basics are few – cooked rice, some filling and perhaps a wrapper –
but the possibilities nearly infinite.
Join us on May 16, 2017 for a slide-illustrated talk by Elizabeth Andoh as she
guides us through a thousand years of Japan’s culinary history seeking out the
origins and contemporary configurations of Japan’s beloved rice bundles:
omusubi and onigiri.
Elizabeth Andoh, has made Japan her home for decades. She took her formal culinary training at the Yanagihara School of Classical Japanese Cuisine in Tokyo and established her own culinary arts program there, A Taste of Culture, 45 years ago. She is the author of 6 books including the award-winning WASHOKU: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2005). Elizabeth offers opportunities to delve into the ways of the Japanese kitchen in Tokyo, and on line through the Craftsy platform. Details on her website: www.TASTEofCULTURE.com
On Saturday, April 8:
Theme: Food & Landscape Co-Produced by Cochon555 and American Friends of the Oxford Food Symposium Date & Time: Saturday April 8 from 9 am· 2:30 pm incl. Cold Brew, Breakfast, Ramen & Riesling Lunch + Glenfiddich Tastings Place: SoWa Power Station Tickets, $50 for cooks/students (use code INDUSTRY) and $70/public.
TICKET & EVENT INFO‚ RSVP TODAY
Making its national debut. BESPOKE aims to enrich the culinary and intellectual worlds of all present.
There will be keynote speeches by Dr. Amy Trubek (Vermont Professor and author of Taste Of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir) and Adam Sharp (formerly Twitter's Head of News, Politics, and Elections).
A 4-person panel will address the issues of Power, Labor, and Class in the Food Industry. Speakers include Chef Josh Lewin of Juliet, Yamilla Ruiz of Restaurant Opportunities Center (ROC), Alexandre Galimberti of OXFAM, and Dr. Amy Trubek. Thiswill be followed by a series of talking circles pairing 10-12 guests with each of the day's speakers, along with Chef Mary Dumont of the upcoming Cultivar.
Former Gourmet correspondent Rob McKeown and Oxford board member Doug Duda will Chair the day. All proceeds go to Piggy Bank and American Friends of Oxford Symposium Charities.
FOOD AND BEVERAGE PROVIDED BY
Tuesday, March 21 2017, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Jeri Quinzio will discuss something sweet!
Julia Child is synonymous with French cooking, but her legacy runs much deeper. In this presentation, her great-nephew and My Life in France coauthor Alex Prud'homme, will recount the myriad ways he has unearthed in which she profoundly shaped how we eat today. He shows us Child in the aftermath of the publication of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, suddenly finding herself America's first lady of French food and under considerable pressure to embrace her new mantle. We see her dealing with difficult colleagues and the challenges of fame, ultimately using her newfound celebrity to create what would become a totally new type of food television. Every bit as entertaining, inspiring, and delectable as My Life in France, Prud'homme's new book The French Chef in America uncovers Julia Child beyond her "French chef" persona and reveals her second act to have been as groundbreaking and adventurous as her first.
Tuesday, September 20th 2016, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Ilaria Patania will discuss her event “Eating Archeology”
Inspired by the Milan World Fair of 2015, centered on food, a multidisciplinary event was organized that unearthed ancient recipes for a popular audience. “Eating Archaeology” brought together disciplines commonly understood as fundamentally different: the tangible experience of gastronomy and the erudite pursuit of archaeology. To this end, the semester-long program paired graduate students in the fields of culinary arts, archaeology, and food history to research and recreate ancient recipes dating from the Greek Bronze age to the American Colonial period. Patania will discuss the exiciting results of this research and event.
As an Italian living in America, Patania says that for her, cooking is a way to be reminded of home. “I brought a pot from home, and when I cook with it, it reinforces my identity,” she says. “Humans have been immigrants and emigrants forever. What do you bring with you to new places? Tools, and what you eat. These are ties to previous lives, and a way to feel at home. This is archaeology at its best. Food is archaeology. It’s not a pot in a museum.
Tuesday, October 11th 2016, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Chitrita Benerji will discuss her Bengal Cuisinge
Chitrita Banerji, a Bengali-American writer, grew up in
Calcutta, India, and came to the United States as a graduate student. She received her Master’s Degree in English from Harvard University. She now lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts and travels frequently to India.
In her writing, Banerji uses both fiction and nonfiction to examine the relationships between memory, history, culture, religion, and food. She is the author of several books on the food and culture of her native India, the latest being Eating India: An Odyssey into the Food and Culture of the Land of Spices, published in the United States in 2007. Time Out, London, listed it among the best new food books of 2008. Her work has been included in Best American Travel Writing 2006.
Her first novel, Mirror City, is published by Penguin Viking.
Tuesday, November 15th 2016, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Jim O’Connell will discuss Dining Out in Boston: A Culinary History
Over the years, Boston has been one of America’s leading laboratories of urban culture, including restaurants, and Boston history provides valuable insights into American food ways. James C. O’Connell, will share his fascinating look at more than two centuries of culinary trends in Boston restaurants, presenting a rich and hitherto unexplored side to the city’s past. His new book Dining Out in Boston shows that the city was a pioneer in elaborate hotel dining, oyster houses, French cuisine, student hangouts, ice cream parlors, the twentieth-century revival of traditional New England dishes, and contemporary locavore and trendy foodie culture. In stories of the most-beloved Boston restaurants of yesterday and today—illustrated with an extensive collection of historic menus, postcards, and photos—O’Connell reveals a unique history sure to whet the intellectual and nostalgic appetite of Bostonians and restaurant-goers the world over.
Tuesday, December 6th 2016, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Tom Nealon will discuss Food Fights & Culture Wars: Secret History of Taste
Tom will discuss Revolution! Conflict! and Gluttony! In his eclectic book of food history, Food Fights & Culture Wars: A Secret History of Taste, he takes on such overlooked themes as carp and the Crusades, brown sauce and Byron, and chillies and cannibalism, and suggests that hunger and taste are the twin forces that secretly defined the course of civilization. Through war and plague, revolution and migration, people have always had to eat. What and how they ate provoked culinary upheaval around the world as ingredients were traded and fought over, and populations desperately walked the line between satiety and starvation. Parallel to the history books, a second, obscurer history was also being recorded in the cookbooks of the time, which charted the evolution of meals and the transmission of ingredients around the world. The history of food is filled with mythical origin stories, dubious recipes, and fierce nationalism. Secret History of Taste explores the mysteries at the intersection of food and society, and attempts to make sense of the curious area between fact and fiction. He will share some of the fascinating, forgotten stories behind everyday dishes and processes. Among many conspiracies and controversies, the author meditates on the connections between the French Revolution and table settings, food thickness and colonialism, and lemonade and the Black Plague.
Tuesday, May 3rd 2016, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Barbara Ketcham Wheaton will discuss her database, “The Cook’s Oracle.”
Barbara Wheaton, one of the founders of the Culinary Historians of Boston and honorary curator of the culinary collection at the Schlesinger Library, will be our speaker in May.
She will discuss her database, “The Cook’s Oracle,” in which she is logging every recipe, ingredient, and technique in the majority of cookbooks published in America and throughout Europe. The database will allow researchers, scholars, and just plain people to look at the way cooking has changed – or not – over the centuries.
For example, they’ll be able to see the way blancmange evolved from the fourteenth-century sickroom dish made with capon flesh to Fannie Farmer’s dish of the same name, made without capons, but still recommended for the sick and convalescent. It will show how cooks timed dishes, judged the stages of sugar boiling, and knew when an oven was hot enough long before they had mechanical devices to help them. And much more.
This promises to be a fascinating, thought-provoking evening.
Tuesday, March 22nd 2016, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Anastacia Marx de Salcedo will present: The Military Impact on 20th and 21st Century Consumer Food
It's a little-known fact that the US military is behind much of the science used in creating processed foods. Ever since Napoleon, armies have sought better ways to preserve, store and transport edibles for battle. As part of this quest, the American army spearheaded the invention of energy bars, restructured meat, extended-life bread, cling wrap, cheese powder, TV dinners, active dry yeast, instant coffee and much more. After World War II, as part of our national policy of preparedness, the Defense Department enlisted industry—huge corporations such as ADM, ConAgra, General Mills, Hershey, Hormel, Mars, Nabisco, Reynolds, Smithfield, Swift, Tyson, and Unilever—to help. It’s a good deal for both sides: the companies get exclusive patents or a jumpstart on a breakthrough technology; the army gets a ready supply of rations manufacturers should there ever be a World War III. But there’s a catch. The traits prized in soldier sustenance—imperishability, durability, affordability and appeal to a broad range of palates—have ended up dominating our grocery store shelves and refrigerator cases, often to the detriment of consumer health.
In addition to a detailed discussion of the origins of various supermarket items, this talk will cover the history of combat rations from antiquity to the present (think prosciutto!), the invention of canning during the Napoleonic Wars, the impact of the Spanish-American War’s “embalmed beef” scandal on the country, and the military’s 20th-century transformation of the nascent field of food science.
Tuesday, April 12th 2016, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Andy Smith will present: Sugar from his book on “Sugar”
It’s no surprise that sugar has been on our minds for several millenia. First cultivated in New Guinea around 8,000 B.C.E., this addictive sweetener has since come to dominate our appetites-whether in candy, desserts, soft drinks, or even pasta sauces-for better and for worse. In this presentation, Andrew F. Smith will offer a fascinating history of this simultaneously beloved and reviled ingredient, holding its incredible value as a global commodity up against its darker legacies of slavery and widespread obesity.
As Smith demonstrates, sugar’s past is chock-full of determined adventurers: relentless sugar barons and plantation owners who worked alongside plant breeders, food processors, distributors, and politicians to build a business based on our cravings. Exploring both the sugarcane and sugar beet industries, he tells story after story of those who have made fortunes and those who have met demise all because of sugar’s simple but profound hold on our palettes. Delightful and surprisingly action-packed, this book offers a layered and definitive tale of sugar and the many people who have been caught in its spell-from barons to slaves, from chefs to the countless among us born with that insatiable devil, the sweet tooth.
Tuesday, February 16th 2016, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Ina Lipkowitz will present: The Written Kitchen: From Early Cookbooks To Contemporary Blogs
The birth of blogs in the 1990’s provided a new medium for untrained middle-class women who love to cook to reach other women who also love to cook. Somehow, with neither computer skills nor formal culinary training, these bloggers succeed in creating virtual communities of passionate followers and their cookbooks are instant bestsellers.
As they say, the more things change, the more they stay the same.
Back in the 18th century, the cookbook and recipe format that we still recognize today came into being when untrained middle-class women identified and spoke to a new audience: young inexperienced women who needed help preparing family meals with neither mother nor grandmother close at hand. With none of the formality of professionally trained male chef’s cookbooks, these early women cookbook writers developed many of the strategies used by today’s food bloggers to such tremendous success.
This presentation promises to inspire you to pull out your favorite teas, fire up the stove, and get steeping!
In her new book, Steeped: Recipes Infused with Tea Annelies Ziderveld teaches how to romance your oat porridge with rooibos, jazz up your brussel sprouts with jasmine, charge your horchata with masala chai! Annelies Zijderveld’s deliciously inventive tea-steeped recipes include:
Matcha Chia Pudding Parfaits
Earl Grey Soba Noodle Salad
Green Tea Coconut Rice
Chamomile Buttermilk Pudding with Caramelized Banana
Earl Grey Poached Pears with Masala Chai Caramel Sauce
Tuesday, November 10th 2015, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
The Brass Sisters will present: Baking With The Brass Sisters their new book arriving this fall.
Tuesday, December 8th 2015, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Nancy Jenkins will talk about: Virgin Territory : Exploring the world of Olive Oil
Nancy's new Book, Virgin Territory : Exploring the world of Olive Oil captures the delights of making and cooking with olive oil. Olive oil is more popular than ever, thanks to its therapeutic and preventative effects in treating different diseases, as well as the growing variety of brands and imports available. Nancy Harmon Jenkins, arguably the leading authority on olive oil and the healthy Mediterranean diet, will discuss her new book Virgin Territory. The book features recipes ranging from soups to seafood to sauces to sweets. You will hear about many but this talk isn’t just about hearty and healthful recipes; Jenkins also will cover the history and culture of olive oil as well as how to buy it and cook with it.
Wednesday, October 14th 2015, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Rosana Yin-Ting Wan will present "The Culinary Lives of John and Abigail Adams"
Rosana Yin-Ting Wan was born in Hong Kong and migrated to the United States as a child. Although she primarily grew up in Houston, Texas, she also lived in various places including Upstate New York and San Francisco. She started her undergraduate work at University of Houston-Downtown in Houston, Texas and later transferred to Suffolk University in Boston where she received her B.A. in History, with honors, in 2011.
Since relocating to Boston, she continues to pursue her studies in the history of the American Revolution, 18th century culinary culture, and fine arts. In the summer of 2012, while volunteering at the Boston National Historical Park, she did a televised interview with Sean Hennessey, the public affairs officer of the park for the SinoVision TV station on how the National Park Service plays a major role in preserving Boston History. Then she worked as a Park Ranger for the Adams National Historical Park. Later she became a seasonal park interpreter for the Pilgrim Memorial State Park, with the Department of Conservation and Recreation (DCR) for the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. She received the 2014 Outstanding New Interpreter Award from the DCR. She is a former re-enactor of the Charlestown Militia Company, in Charlestown, Massachusetts. She is an independent scholar, a museum docent, and serves as a sergeant in the Army National Guard.
She is the first recipient of the John C. Cavanagh Prize in History at Suffolk University in 2011 and a member of the Phi Alpha Theta (National History Honor Society).
She has recently published the book The Culinary Lives of John & Abigail Adams: A Cookbook, by Schiffer Publishing, LTD. It focuses on the food culture during their lifetime (1735-1826), both at home and abroad. Each recipe is based on their correspondence and cookbooks published during the late 18th century and early 19th century.
Tuesday September 15th 2015, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Barbara Haber will present: “Cooking in Captivity: American Civilians in WWII Japanese Prison Camps"
Immediately after attacking Pearl Harbor, the Japanese invaded the Philippines and imprisoned thousands of American civilians who spent the war years deprived of food. Among them was Natalie Crouter, a remarkable Boston-bred woman who kept a diary that describes how a deep longing for food preoccupied every internee. In this lecture with illustrations, author Barbara Haber will share her research of Natalie Crouter's detailed wartime diary. Haber, the former Curator of Printed Books at the Schlesinger Library, developed a collection of more than 16,000 volumes on cooking and food for the library, established the Radcliffe Culinary Friends, co-founded the Radcliffe Culinary Times and was one of the founding members of the Culinary Historians of Boston.
From tastings to tours to talks, The Partnership of the Historic Bostons is proud to offer this FREE chance to learn about 17th-century Boston. Given the focus of the Culinary Historians, I imagine this topic would be of great relevance. I was searching around via google and was thrilled to discover your group!
What's on the menu?
A unique new walking tour that shares the stories and sites of Boston’s first food landmarks
Thought-provoking debate about the issues beyond the table, from cooperation to conflict between colonists and Native Americans over food and land
Special tour of the Saugus Iron Works to learn about the Scottish prisoners of war who toiled at America’s first industrial site – and what they ate and how they cooked
A fascinating, thought-provoking talk on Puritan beliefs about food – could spiritual food sustain them when crops were scarce?
A display of New England Historical Genealogical Society treasures related to food.
Tuck in to a delectable feast of 17th-century Boston history. I hope you can pass this information along to your friends and colleagues – please feel free to contact me with any questions.
Tuesday January 27th 2015, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Barbara Haber will present:L
“Cooking in Captivity: American Civilians in WWII Japanese Prison Camps"
Tuesday February 10th 2015, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Rosana Yin-Ting Wan will present "The Culinary Lives of John and Abigail Adams"
Tuesday March 10th 2015, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Jason Karakehian will present "A sketch of the rise of “eatable” mushrooms in 19th century America"
Jason Karakehian is a Massachusetts native and has studied mycology and its history as an avocation since 2009. He is an active member of the Boston Mycological Club, Friends of the Farlow Herbarium and the New England Botanical Club. Jason recently published a paper in the journal Mycologia on the fungal genus Angelina and is currently coauthoring a paper on the early 19th century illustrations of fungi by Louis David von Schweinitz. Also in process is an account of the antebellum mycological correspondence of Charles James Sprague of Boston and Rev. Moses Ashley Curtis of the Carolinas. Other activities include tracing the history of botany in MA though the archives of the Boston Society of Natural History, housed at the Museum of Science, Boston.
To the early European colonists in America, mushrooms were mere excrescences of the earth – when they were noticed at all. Native Americans regarded them to have ceremonial importance but as a whole, little is known of their dietary use. It was not until the early 19th century when a systematic account of our nation’s fungal flora commenced. Later, the deprivations of the Civil War would force one clergyman/scientist to begin “experimenting” with eating different species of locally foraged mushrooms. Others soon followed and began to raise awareness of the potential of this food source in the popular press. Declarations of “wasted food” along with news of accidental poisonings and the arrival of unabashed mycophagist immigrants from Italy and eastern Europe challenged American culture to reckon with the dangers and potential of mushrooms. With the formation of the first mycological clubs in the northeast and a dedicated governmental effort to educate the public, the effort was joined to popularize the edible mushroom.
Tuesday April 7th 2015, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Author Mike Urban will present "The History of New England Diners"
New England is the birthplace of the American diner, and Mike Urban will bring together the best of them and share with you their best recipes for comfort food, New England style. Celebrate the food, culture, and funky architecture of these scrappy culinary icons with recipes, color photos, interviews with owners, and heartwarming stories from a broad array of customers.
Diners were born in New England (Rhode Island, to be exact), and they have a long and colorful history as local eateries of distinction because of both their menus and their buildings. Though many diners have gone by the wayside in the past half century, there are still plenty around, and each has at least a dish or two for which they’re best known and that keep customers coming back year after year. The New England Diner Cookbook celebrates every facet of these diamonds in the rough. Along with diners that have perfected the tried-and-true items like corned beef hash, clam chowder, and malted milkshakes, many have developed relatively sophisticated menus that include distinctly New England delicacies like Lobster Chow Mein, Butterscotch Indian Pudding, and Portobello Mushroom Fries.
Tuesday November 25th 2014, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Jeri Quinzio will present "Food on the Rails: The Golden Era of Railroad Dining"
In roughly one hundred years – from the 1870s to the 1970s – dining on trains began, soared to great heights, and then fell to earth.
The founders of the first railroad companies cared more about hauling freight than feeding passengers. The only food available on trains in the mid-nineteenth century was whatever passengers brought aboard in their lunch baskets or managed to pick up at a brief station stop. It was hardly fine dining.
Seeing the business possibilities in offering long-distance passengers comforts such as beds, toilets, and meals, George Pullman and other pioneering railroaders like Georges Nagelmackers of Orient Express fame, transformed rail travel. Fine dining and wines became the norm for elite railroad travelers by the turn of the twentieth century. The foods served on railroads – from consommé to turbot to soufflé, always accompanied by champagne - equaled that of the finest restaurants, hotels, and steamships.
After World War II, as airline travel and automobiles became the preferred modes of travel, elegance gave way to economy. Canned and frozen foods, self-service, and quick meals and snacks became the norm. By the 1970s, the golden era of railroad dining had come grinding to a halt.
Food on the Rails traces the rise and fall of food on the rails from its rocky start to its glory days to its sad demise. Looking at the foods, the service, the rail station restaurants, the menus, they dining accommodations and more, Jeri Quinzio brings to life the history of cuisine and dining in railroad cars from the early days through today.
Tuesday December 2nd 2014, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Becky Sue Epstein will present "Brandy: A Global History"
Cognac – an illustrious and elegant amber brandy – is currently one of the most fashionable components of high-end mixed drinks, consumed in the world’s coolest bars.
Many cultures have played a part in the history of the beverage, from the Dutch who made brandewijn or ‘burnt wine,’ to the Spanish colonials in Peru and California who produced the first brandies in the New World.
Brandy: A Global History takes readers on a journey from the alchemists of the Middle Ages to present-day mixology hotspots, chronicling the history of the drink and the beautiful locations in which it is produced. For those inclined to imbibe, the book offers advice on buying, storing and serving brandy, and features classic and new cocktail recipes for both connoisseurs and first-time drinkers to enjoy.
Tuesday September 9th 2014, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Paula Marcoux on “Cooking with Fire”
Cooking with live fire goes way beyond the barbecue grill. Rediscover the pleasures of a variety of unconventional techniques, from roasting pork on a spit to baking bread in ashes, searing fish on a griddle, roasting vegetables in a fireplace, making soup in a cast-iron pot, baking pizza in a wood-fired oven, cooking bacon on a stick, and much, much more. Includes 100 recipes for everything from roasted rabbit and fish chowder to baguettes and burnt cream.
Tuesday October 21st 2014, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Maria Speck on “Ancient Wheats—From Einkorn and Emmer to Spelt and Kamut”
Before the rise of high-protein modern-day wheat—cultivated to be easy to harvest and to provide us with fluffy industrial breads—there were the ancient wheat varieties such as einkorn, emmer (better known as farro), spelt, and Kamut.
How are they different from modern-day wheat? What about claims that they are easier to digest, offering help to people with gluten-sensitivities? Where you can you find them? How do you cook and bake with them? Ancient grains expert Maria Speck will discuss these wheat varieties, which she has examined closely for her next cookbook. She will introduce their unique character, their textures and flavors, and answer questions.
Bio: Maria Speck is the award-winning author of Ancient Grains for Modern Meals (Ten Speed Press), her first cookbook. It received the coveted Julia Child Award and the Health and Special Diet award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP), as well as a Gourmand Award. The cookbook contains 100 Mediterranean-inspired whole grain recipes—from amaranth to wheat berries.
Both the New York Times and the Washington Post selected Ancient Grains as one of the top cookbooks of 2011, and Cooking Light magazine named it one of the 100 best cookbooks of the past 25 years.
Maria's next cookbook, Simply Ancient Grains, will be published in spring by Ten Speed Press. Raised in Greece and Germany, Maria has a lifelong passion for whole grains. She is a veteran journalist and food writer, and has contributed to Gourmet, Saveur, and Gastronomica. She also blogs at www.MariaSpeck.com.
Tuesday April 8th 2014, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Professors Lisa Stoffer & Michael Lesy will give a talk on
"Repast: Dining Out at the Dawn of the New American Century, 1900-1910"
Before Julia Child introduced the American housewife to France’s cuisine bourgeoise, before Alice Waters built her Berkeley shrine to local food, before Wolfgang Puck added Asian flavors to classical dishes and caviar to pizza, the restaurateurs and entrepreneurs of the early twentieth century were changing the way America ate. Beginning with the simplest eateries and foods and culminating with the emergence of a genuinely American way of fine dining, This talk will take members on a culinary tour of early-twentieth-century restaurants and dining as described in the book Repast. The innovations introduced at the time—in ingredients, technologies, meal service, and cuisine—transformed the act of eating in public in ways that persist to this day.
The 2014 Culinary Historians of Boston BanqueT
"A Taste of Morocco"
Each year the Culinary Historians of Boston join together for a banquet celebrating a specific historical period or Cuisine. This year the Banquet is titled "A Taste of Morocco" !
In her book Arabesque, Claudia Roden writes about the Moroccan Cuisine "Moroccan cooking is the most exquisite and refined of North Africa, especially famous for its couscous, its multilayered pies and delicately flavored tagines, its marriages of meat with fruit, and its extraordinary combinations of spicy, savory and sweet. Styles of cooking go back hundreds of years. Some are rooted in the rural traditions of the indigenous Berber populations of Morocco, while an important grand style is a legacy from the Royal kitchens of the great Moroccan dynasties that has echoes from the medieval Bagdad and Muslim Spain."
More information with date and time coming soon.
Please research, read and learn and engage yourself in this most scrumptious cuisine and cook for all a dish of your choosing to bring to the banquet. Write a short memo describing how and why you were inspired by this dish and tell us all the ingredients and how it was cooked. This is your assignment for the Banquet.
Member Mohamed Maenaoui provides us with the following starting point:
Major elements of the Moroccan Cuisine
Harissa: a red firry sauce (but green version, but rare), made mainly from red chilies, and enhanced with garlic, caraway seeds, and coriander. In my version, I add red vinegar to increase the shelf life, and add to it another layer of flavor. Chemoula, green & red: most often used as a fragrant marinade for fish, but it could also be used for meat, poultry, or vegetables
Pickled lemon Ras al hanout, a spice mix made of twelve to twenty or more spices, depending where you buy it from. It is an all purpose mixture, but usually added to tagines.
Moroccan cuisine uses a liberal amount of many more spice, herbs, condiment, among them: cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, caraway seeds, fenugreek, nutmeg, fennel seeds, black and white pepper corns, cilantro, parsley, thyme, oregano, basil, etc
Kemia, Meze, and Spreads
Khobiza (marsh mellow greens) spread Bissara, dry fava beens spread Zaarlook, kind of ratatouille, with eggplant, zucchini, and sweet peppers Briwats, filo pastry stuffed with fresh cheese, ground lamb, beef or chicken
Lemon chicken tagine with olives
Slow braised beef short ribs with prunes and roasted almonds Couscous and vegetables with chicken, lamb, or beef R’fissa with m’ssaman, shredded like pasta, and dressed a brothy stew of chicken, lot of white onion, seasoned with fenugreek, herbs, smen (aged clarified butter, lot of umami!) Chicken bastilla (usually squab) very rich, but delicious. You could find in some great restaurant of Paris, San Francisco, New York
Kaab al ghazal (gazelle horns) stuffed with ground almond, orange flower water, and cinnamon. Briwat be louz
Tuesday March 18th 2014, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library: Bob Frishman will give a talk on “Clockwork roasting jacks”
Bob Frishman has repaired, restored and sold antique clocks for more than thirty-two years. In 1992, he founded Bell-Time Clocks, named after a Harper's Weekly engraving by Winslow Homer depicting New England mill buildings and workers. In 2002, he came home from an auction with two clockwork roasting jacks which he gave to his wife, Jeanne Schinto, connecting with her fascination with the history of food. What followed was an investigation into the history of these ingenious gadgets. Bob will explore this topic with us while sharing his passion for historic time keeping devices.
Tuesday February 4th 2014, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Darra Goldstein will present "The Oxford Companion to Sweets: An Inside Look"
Darra Goldstein, Founding Editor of Gastronomica and Editor-in-Chief of the forthcoming Oxford Companion to Sweets, will offer an insider’s look at how a volume of this magnitude is put together. With over 600 detailed entries on all aspects of sweets throughout the world, the Companion will be more than a listing of candies, cakes, and pastries. It will also contain material on the chemistry, biochemistry, history, culture, and visual culture of sugar and other sweeteners throughout time. Following a brief discussion of the book’s contents and how to conceptualize and accomplish a large project like this, the presentation will open up to the group for a conversation about approaches to food history and culture in publishing.
Tuesday January 7th 2014, @ 6:00pm Radcliffe Room, Schlesinger Library:
Prof. Christopher Jones will present "Blood, Pagan and Christian:The contrast between the Greco-Roman attitude to meat, fish, bread and wine as articles of consumption and the corresponding early Christian attitude."
For the early Christians, “pagan” referred to a multitude of unbelievers: Greek and Roman devotees of the Olympian gods, and “barbarians” such as Arabs and Germans with their own array of deities. But while these groups were clearly outsiders or idolaters, who and what was pagan depended on the outlook of the observer. Treating paganism as a historical construct rather than a fixed entity, Prof. Christopher Jones' book Between Pagan and Christian uncovers the ideas, rituals, and beliefs that Christians and pagans shared in Late Antiquity.
Tuesday November 12th 2013, 6 p.m., at the Sheerr Room in Fay House, Radcliffe
Michael Reiskind will present the History of the Lost Breweries of Roxbury & Jamaica Plain
Michael Reiskind, vice-president and historian of the JP Historical Society,
has been researching Boston's historic breweries for twenty years. His talk will been on:
Lost Breweries of Roxbury & Jamaica Plain.
In 1900, Boston had the most breweries per person of any
city in the country - and the overwhelming majority of them
were in the Stony Brook area of Roxbury and Jamaica Plain.
During the heyday of Boston breweries, this area was the center of the industry with at least 24 breweries along the banks of the Stony Brook. Learn about the
history of brewing in Boston and the people who established the breweries in our city.
Tuesday December 3rd 2013, @ 6:00pm Schlesinger Library:
Yoshio Saito will discuss: "Okonomiyaki: Japanese Comfort Food"
Yoshio Saito is the author of Okonomiyaki: Japanese Comfort Food
The talk will be about Japanese comfort food, centering around Okonomiyaki in a few different regional styles. Okonomiyaki is seldom seen in the US and not in Boston.
There is one take-out place in New York City.
Chef Saito will discuss this very popular dish in Japan.
Also, you will have a chance to taste some of the dishes.
He completed a professional Okonomiyaki School in Japan, run by Otafuku Sauce Company.
Tuesday October 29th 2013, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library Rachel E. Black, PhD will present: La cuisine des mères: How women made Lyon the gastronomic capital of France, 1890-1935
Rachel E. Black, PhD is Assistant Professor & Academic Coordinator of the Gastronomy Program, Boston University, 808 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA 02215 tel. 617-358-6291 fax. 617-353-4130
Women played an exceptional part in constructing a highly acclaimed regional cuisine in Lyon during the first half of the twentieth century. In 1935, the restaurant critic and culinary writer Curnonsky declared Lyon the gastronomic capital of France. Gastronomes and early culinary tourists held lyonnais cuisine in high esteem for its honesty and lack of artifice. Women often ran the kitchens in the small restaurants in Lyon that earned critical praise in the Interwar years. This was a moment when women claimed an important place in an otherwise male dominated field—professional cooking. Critics and gastronomes declared female chefs—les meres--the guardians of culinary tradition. Focusing on the lives of Eugénie Brazier and Françoise Fillioux, this article will explore the changing gender dynamics in France from 1890-1935 and the historic conditions that made it possible for a small group of women to rise to prominence in the culinary arts.
Tuesday September 24th 2013, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Medieval Arabs Ate Sandwiches, too: Bazmaward and Awsat for the Record
by Nawal Nasrallah
The talk will survey the extant medieval Arabic record of the sandwich, impressively extensive and varied, to controvert the dominant western view that the sandwich was ‘invented’ in eighteenth-century England. Brick-oven spongy and crusty breads and thin malleable varieties were used by Arab cooks to make sandwiches, called awsat and bazmaward. These sandwiches were popular snacks purchased from the food markets, and offered as hors d’oeuvre before the main hot meal. The medieval Arab sandwich was not an isolated accomplishment: its lineage and culture can be seen in the evolution of some of today’s widespread sandwiches, such as shawirma, in whose dissemination Middle-Eastern immigrants were a key factor. Immigrants from Sicily, where the Arabs ruled for centuries, transmitted the sandwich culture to other shores, as far away as New Orleans, whose national sandwich is the muffaletta, said to be of Sicilian origin. The article further provides the missing Arab link for this popular ‘Western’ sandwich by outlining its Arab origin, including its name.
Along with the talk there will be a brief demo showing how the medieval sandwich was made by following one of the recipes. Sampling of medieval sandwiches will be offered, too.
The voluptuous Sophia Loren supposedly quipped “everything you see I owe to spaghetti.” This remark, although apocryphal, serves as an epigrammatic reminder that the food we plant, harvest, package, prepare and eat is a reflection of ourselves and our culture. The distinguished Ephemera/34 speakers have undoubtedly deeply immersed themselves in the “Loren Theorem” and will demonstrate how the often visually stunning ephemera of food and drink similarly both mirrors and influences culture. While this may sound frightfully over-academic to some, one must remember that others have frequently considered food ephemera to be merely rather modern paper abundantly found in dollar bins at antique malls. Apparently, at least in in the popular imagination, the ephemera of food and drink occupies opposite ends of the collecting spectrum: from highfalutin to commonplace. For additional Info: http://www.ephemerasociety.org/34.html Should you have additional questions on the event please don’t hesitate to contact me at email@example.com or 860-872-7587.
Sandra L. Oliver, noted food historian and celebrated author, will lead an intensive three-day workshop in historic recipe research. Each participant selects a recipe and an alternative they would like to research. Class time is divided between lecture and discussion time, and Oliver will teach a method of conducting the research. Each participant will use a combination of resources both real—books in the room—and virtual—online resources via computer—to conduct research. Participants are encouraged to bring a computer with wireless capacity. The workshop concludes with a cooking afternoon to test your recipe on the final day in the 1786 kitchen at the Visitor Center at Hall Tavern.
The all-inclusive registration fee includes course materials, meals and four nights (Sunday-Thursday) lodging at the Deerfield Inn. Fee for double occupancy: $765; fee for single occupancy: $1,115; fee for commuter: $415 (no lodging and breakfast); fee for traveling companion (not attending workshop) with a double occupancy participant: $440.
Fall 2012 - Spring 2013
Tuesday April 9th 2013, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Mohamed Maenaoui will take us through the history of the Foods of Morocco
Morocco produces a large range of Mediterranean fruits and vegetables and even some tropical ones. Common meats include beef, mutton and lamb, chicken, camel, rabbit, and seafood which serve as a base for the cuisine. Characteristic flavorings include lemon pickle, cold-pressed, unrefined olive oil and dried fruits. It is also known for being far more heavily spiced than most Middle Eastern Cuisine. However, this representation may be misguided since most Morroccan dishes are not hot spicy, but complex blends of flavors, recently accompanied by the traditional Tunisian fiery condiment Harissa.
Mohamed Maenaoui will take us on a journey through the flavors, traditions, complexity of his fascinating ancestral cuisine.
Tuesday May 14th 2013, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Glenn Mack will provide a photographic survey of Central Asian foodway
and its role in nationalism along the Silk Road.
Please join us for a photographic survey of Central Asian foodways and its role in nationalism along the Silk Road. Dr. Mack will provide an overview the region's culinary culture based on his travel and work in Chinese and post-Soviet Central Asia during the last 25 years.
Dr. Glenn R. Mack is an educator, author, cook, and researcher. Originally trained as a Sovietologist, Glenn covered the Soviet Union as a photo editor for 7 years in Moscow and New York with Time Magazine. After the fall of the USSR, he spent a year in Central Asia studying the culinary culture and history of the region.
The CHOB Annual Banquet provides an opportunity for members to enjoy studying, preparing, and (of course) eating foods from a specific historical period or region.
This year, the Historians are taking on the challenging cuisine of Morocco. Starting with Mohammed Meoumani's presentation in April, members will choose or be assigned recipes for the full range of Morroccan cooking from appetizer, main, and dessert courses to breads and beverages. The vast variety of spices and combinations represented by this refined North African cuisine.
End of 2012-2013 Season
Tuesday November 13th 2012, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Barbara Anderson Rotger from the Gastronomy Program at BU will discuss her Recipe Box.
Barbara Rotger has had a passion for food for as long as she can remember. She has followed that passion through gastronomy courses, completing her Masters degree and subsequently working at the Gastronomy Program at BU.
In this presentation she will share some of her path through the wonderful world of gastronomy as well as some of the cherished recipes she has collected along the way.
Tuesday December 4th 2012, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Joseph M. Carlin will discuss his new book Cocktails: A Global History (Reaktion Books - Edible).
Gimlet, negroni, manhattan, Long Island ice tea, flirtini, hurricane, screwdriver—cocktails have come a long way from their first incarnation in the seventeenth century, when rum punch was everyone’s go-to drink. Originally made of five ingredients, including a spirit, sugar, and spices, “cocktail” now refers to any drink made of liquor and a mixer. In this talk, Joseph M. Carlin will describe how his book Cocktails: A Global History (Reaktion Books - Edible) uncovers how many of our favorite cocktails were invented and describe how this most American of alcoholic beverages—but most international of drinks—came to influence society around the world.
Tuesday January 15th 2013, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Joan Nathan will share her thoughts on Food, History, and unbreakable link
between beliefs, family, and food.
Inspired by her own family history, Ms. Nathan set off to learn more about the often hidden history and foods of French Jews. Within this rich agricultural country, Ashkenazic, Sephardic, and Provençal Jewish food developed side by side and often melded with French regional cooking. While the Jews of Alsace cooked with goose fat and sauerkraut, those of the south cooked with oil and garlic. Since some Jewish families in Provence, for instance, have been there for over two thousand years, it is hard to differentiate Jewish from Provençal food customs. Fougasse, a bread with holes, traditionally mixed, kneaded and shaped at home, then brought to a communal oven for baking was, for example, the holiday bread for Jews. This diversity of origin goes beyond region and all blend together in the French people, including its Jews.
The Roger Smith Cookbook Conference is scheduled for February 7- 9, 2013 at The Roger Smith Hotel in New York City. It is an eclectic gathering of those who publish, write, edit, agent, research, or simply buy and use cookbooks. On Thursday, February 7, five workshops will explore issues in researching, reading and publishing cookbooks: Introduction to Cookbook Publishing; Reading Cookbooks: A Structured Approach and Structured Dialogue with Barbara Ketcham Wheaton; The Wild World of Self-Publishing; and The Way to Look: How to Do Research with Cookbooks, and Cookbook Publishing 360. (There is a separate registration fee for the workshops. Pre-registration is a must; no walk-ins.) Friday and Saturday, February 8-9, are the core of the conference program with 32 panels. On each day, concurrent sessions will take place on a broad and stimulating range of topics, from manuscript cookery books and class and politics in cookbooks, to cookbooks in the digital age and the culinary app. Join 103 writers, publishers, editors, agents and academics in New York in February. Explore the exciting list of participants and read many of their bios at: http:// cookbookconf.com/participants
Conference registration includes lunch, coffee, and receptions for both Friday and Saturday.
For more information and to register, go to: http://cookbookconf.com or email us at firstname.lastname@example.org with questions. --
!!! SCHEDULE CHANGE !!!
Tuesday February 26th 2013, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Jeri Quinzio will discuss her book History of Pudding
Pudding: A Global History explains how puddings developed from their early savory, sausage-like mixtures into the sweet and sticky confections we are now familiar with, and he describes how advances in kitchen equipment have changed puddings over time.
!!!!! Every Dish Has A Past: A Workshop in Historic Recipe Research
March 18, 2013 - March 20, 2013, 8:30 am - 5:00 pm The deadline for registration is March 1, 2013 !!!
Our March speaker, Sandra L. Oliver, noted food historian and celebrated author, will lead an intensive three-day workshop in historic recipe research in Deerfield, MA. Each participant selects a recipe and an alternative they would like to research. Class time is divided between lecture and discussion time, and Oliver will teach a method of conducting the research. Each participant will use a combination of resources both real—books in the room—and virtual—on-line resources via computer—to conduct research. Participants are encouraged to bring a computer with wireless capacity. The workshop concludes with a cooking afternoon to test your recipe on the final day in the 1786 kitchen at the Visitor Center at Hall Tavern.
Registration includes 3 nights stay Sunday, March 17 to Wednesday (morning), March 20 at the Deerfield Inn Carriage House and all meals. Commuter registration option available. Traveling companions not attending the workshop may come and share in meals for an extra cost. The workshop is limited to 15 participants.
To learn more or to register, go to: Every Dish Has Past Workshop
Tuesday March 5th 2013, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Sandy Oliver will discuss her book “Maine Home Cooking”
What You Need Know About Maine Food. Since moving to her Maine island home twenty-five years ago, food writer and historian Sandy Oliver has had to learn a thing or two about Maine food traditions. Then while assembling her newest book, Maine Home Cooking, quite a few insights came gradually into focus. In her talk, Sandy will sum up her education so far.
Culinary Historians of Boston 2012 Schedule:
Tuesday, February 7th, 2012, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library Ina Lipkowitz, professor of English at MIT will explore
the stories behind 5 of our most basic food words
Ina Lipkowitz, professor of English at MIT where she leads classes on fiction and the Bible, will be our February speaker. Her book, Words to Eat by, explores the stories behind 5 of our most basic food words, words that reveal our powerful associations with certain foods. The book tells a remarkable story about the evolution of our language and culinary history. Using sources that range from Roman histories to Julia Childs’ recipes, lyrical which shows how saturated with French and Italian names the English culinary vocabulary is. But the words for our most basic foodstuffs-bread, milk, leek, meat, and Apple-are still rooted in Old English. The Wall Street Journal review called the book “a hymn into the comforting, honest pleasures of food and at the same time a perceptive account of the ways in which many of our tastes were determined hundreds and indeed thousands of years ago.”
Monday, March 12th, 2012, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library Susanne E. Freiberg on Freshness.
That rosy tomato perched on your plate in December is at the end of a great journey—not just over land and sea, but across a vast and varied cultural history. This is the territory charted in Fresh. Opening the door of an ordinary refrigerator, Susanne E. Freidberg tells the curious story of the quality stored inside: freshness.
Tuesday, April 3rd, 2012, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Lobster: A Global History
Summer Shack’s Jasper White, writing for The Wall Street Journal, had this to say about CHB member Elisabeth Townsend’s book on lobsters. “Elisabeth Townsend’s concise but rich Lobster: A Global History offers a journey through lobster’s prehistoric and recorded history, exploring scientific, environmental and culinary matters. . . . She also does an outstanding job of documenting and explaining the modern controversy over the treatment of lobster: Is boiling alive inhumane, for instance, and if so what method might be better? . . . Most of all, [this books reminds] us that our long relationship with lobsters is tied up with our relationships with one another.”J. Elizabeth Towsend will give a talk on her book.
Nancy Harmon Jenkins invites you to join her and Chef Roberto (“Jerry”) Zanieri for a magical six-day full immersion in the delights of springtime Tuscany: AMOROLIO/FOR LOVE OF OLIVE OIL
An Extra-Virgin Intensive for Food Writers, Chefs, and Others Interested in Deepening Their Experience of Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
When: May 20 to 26, 2012 Where: Villa Campestri Olive Oil Resort in the green rolling hills of the Mugello northeast of Florence What: An unusual opportunity to expand and deepen your knowledge of extra-virgin olive oil.
Tuesday, September 11th 2012, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Patricia Herlihy, author of Vodka: A Global History will talk about
Vodka's rise from potato juice to international stardom
In her book, Patricia Herlihy takes you for a ride through vodka’s history, from its mysterious origins in a Slavic country in the fourteenth century to its current transatlantic reign over Europe and North America. She reveals how it continued to flourish despite hurdles like American Prohibition and being banned in Russia on the eve of World War I. On its way to global domination, vodka became ingrained in Eastern European culture, especially in Russia, where standards in vodka production were first set. Illustrated with photographs, paintings, and graphic art, Vodka will catch the eye of any reader intrigued by how “potato juice” became an international industry.
In his lively account of the American tuna industry over the past century, celebrated food writer and scholar Andrew F. Smith relates how tuna went from being sold primarily as a fertilizer to becoming the most commonly consumed fish in the country. In his book, American Tuna, the so-called "chicken of the sea" is both the subject and the backdrop for other facets of American history: U.S. foreign policy, immigration and environmental politics, and dietary trends.
Culinary Historians of Boston Oct 2011 - Jan 2012 Schedule:
Nancy Harmon Jenkins invites you to: AMOROLIO/FOR LOVE OF OLIVE OIL
An Extra-Virgin Intensive for Food Writers, Chefs, and Others Interested in Deepening Their Experience of Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
When: October 15 to 21, 2011 Where: Villa Campestri Olive Oil Resort in the green rolling hills of the Mugello northeast of Florence What: An unusual opportunity to expand and deepen your knowledge of extra-virgin olive oil. Read More
Tuesday, October 25th, 2011, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Champagne: A Global History
Author and CHB member Becky Sue Epstein will discuss her new book, Champagne: A Global History. In the book, she discusses Champagne’s history and the celebrities who made it famous - from Dom Perignon to the widow Veuve Cliquot. She also discusses the difference between Champagne and sparkling wine. And she answers questions such as – Is French Champagne really better than other sparkling wines? How does the wine get fizzy? And why does it stay that way? Ms. Epstein is also the author of The American Lighthouse Cookbook (Sourcebooks/Cumberland, co-written with Chef Ed Jackson).
Monday, November 14th, 2011, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library Catching fire & the impact of cooking for households
Richard W. Wrangham, the Ruth B. Moore Professor of Biological Anthropology at Harvard University's Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology and author of Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human. His talk is titled “Cooking and the shaping of the household.” Cooking is a cultural universal, and in all but the most exceptional circumstances cooked food is an obligatory component of the human diet. Cross-culturally cooking is also the most female-gendered of all domestic activities, since the responsibility to produce an evening meal normally falls on wives. I argue that the gendered structure of the human household arose largely as a result of the biological requirement for cooked food, because this system both allowed wives’ resources to be socially protected from petty theft, and also gave husbands predictable evening nourishment. Historical changes in gender roles within urban households show that this system is not biologically embedded. Recent developments in food practices in the urban industrialized world, including cheap restaurant meals and pre-cooked meals, may be particularly important influences on the breakdown of traditional domestic gender roles.
Tuesday, December 6th, 2011, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Northern Hospitality: cooking by the book in New England
Longtime CHB members Kathleen Fitzgerald and Keith Stavely will discuss their latest book, Northern Hospitality: cooking by the book in New England. The book includes nearly 400 annotated recipes dating from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. The authors explore the methods and meanings of the recipes for everything from pottage to pie crust, from caudle to calf's head.
Robert S. Cox, author of Body and Soul: A Sympathetic History of American Spiritualism, called Northern Hospitality “elegantly written, well-conceived, and compelling…a delight to read.”
Tuesday, January 10th, 2012, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library Tea master Allan Palmer will demonstrate and discuss “chanoyu.”
Tea master Allan Palmer will demonstrate and discuss the 400-year-old Japanese tea ceremony, “chanoyu.” He will describe the symbolic importance of the various implements used in the ceremony and share some details about the highly structured meal that is served before tea called kaiseki. Mr. Palmer says of the tea cermony, “Although Chanoyu is primarily a social act, it is filled with deep spiritual significance and symbolism.”
Culinary Historians of Boston Spring 2010 Schedule:
Tuesday, April 5th, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library Marylene Altieri will give a talk on the “Schlesinger Library's Culinary Collection and the current state of culinary studies at Harvard.”
Monday, March 21, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Andy Smith will talk on “Starving the South: How the North won."
Tuesday, February 15, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Anna Tourkakis, author of the recent book “Delicious Simplicity” , will talk about modifying recipes and how she applied those principles of recipe modification to develop many of the recipes in her cookbook. “Delicious Simplicity” boasts many delicious good for you recipes that are quick and easy to prepare and especially suitable for today's busy life.
Culinary Historians of Boston Fall 2011 Schedule:
Saturday, September 17, 2011
Les Dames d'Escoffier have invited us to their annual fundraiser Feast on a Farm, with a charity auction. 6:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Verrill Farm 11 Wheeler Road
Concord, MA 01742
Les Dames d'Escoffier, Boston Chapter is sponsoring a Green Tables event to promote foods grown on local farms. Green Tables is an initiative of Les Dames d'Escoffier International which showcases the work of LDEI chapters engaged in linking urban and rural farms and gardens to school, restaurant and kitchen tables. Please explore the resources and tools they offer to further this initiative in your community, and join us as we celebrate the work underway. Dinner includes locally raised beef from Open Meadow Farm, pork from Blood Farm and Verrill Farm produce, all paired with wines from Gordon’s Fine Wines and M. S. Walker, Harpoon Beers, Sangria and soft drinks. Why go to the supermarket for foods shipped from distant factory farms when you can feed your family nutritious, locally grown food? You can purchase meats that come from humanely-raised, pasture-fed animals which is important to their health and yours. Come and see why it benefits you to support your local farms, and have fun at the same time! See Feast on a Farm for more info.
Monday, September 19th, 6 p.m., Schlesinger Library
Sandra Sherman's book Invention of the Modern Cookbook is the first study to examine the question of how cookbooks came about, discussing the roots of these collections in 17th-century England and illuminating the cookbook's role as it has evolved over time. In this discussion, she will explore this topic and provide graphic examples of the modern cookbook's development.
Saturday October 23, 2010 10:00am-2:00pm Walking Tour of Boston’s “Latin Quarter”
with Culinary Historians of Boston member Madonna Berry Join culinary arts instructor and food historian Madonna Berry on this guided food tour of Boston’s “Latin Quarter” located in the Hyde Square neighborhood of Jamaica Plain. Within Boston’s “Latin Quarter” is a rich mix of Latino cultures including Dominican, Mexican, Salvadorian, and Guatemalan. An estimated 85% of the businesses located here are Latino owned. As we walk through the neighborhood Madonna will introduce you to her favorite grocery stores, bodegas, specialty markets, bakeries and ethnic restaurants. During the tour enjoy progressive sampling of foods.
Meet at El Oriental de Cuba Restaurant,416 Centre St. (corner of Paul Gore) Jamaica Plain, MA. Members $40.00 Non-members $45.00 All proceeds support the Culinary Historians of Boston
Tuesday, October 26th
Joe Carlin, member of our Board of Directors, will give a talk on “Clams”
Tuesday, November 9th
Lynne C. Anderson will give a talk on her new book “Breaking Bread: Recipes and Stories from Immigrant Kitchens” Through stories of hand-rolled pasta and homemade chutney, local markets and backyard gardens, and wild mushrooms and foraged grape leaves—this book recounts in loving detail the memories, recipes, and culinary traditions of people who have come to the United States from around the world. Chef and teacher Lynne Anderson has gone into immigrant kitchens and discovered the power of food to recall a lost world for those who have left much behind. The enticing, easy-to-prepare recipes feature specialties like Greek dolmades, Filipino adobo, Brazilian peixada, and Sudanese mulukhiyah. Together with Robin Radin’s beautiful photographs, these stories and recipes will inspire cooks of all levels to explore new traditions while perhaps rediscovering their own culinary roots.
Note: At this meeting we were told about the Food News Journal by Marylène Altieri and promised a link. Here it is: Food News Journal Home Page
Culinary Historians of Boston Spring 2011 Schedule:
Wednesday, March 2nd
Andy Smith will talk on “Starving the South: How the North won."
Tuesday, April 5th
Marylene Altieri will give a talk on the “Schlesinger Library's Culinary Collection and the current state of culinary studies at Harvard.”
Fall of 2010 Harvard University Science & Cooking Public Lectures
The Harvard School of Engineering and Applied Sciences (“SEAS”) and the Alícia Foundation have developed a new General Education science course, “Science and Cooking: From Haute Cuisine to the Science of Soft Matter.” The course will use food and cooking to explicate fundamental principles in applied physics and engineering. Limited to currently enrolled Harvard undergraduates, the class will bring together eminent Harvard researchers and world-class chefs, including Wylie Dufresne of wd-50 and Dan Barber of Blue Hill, as well as food scholar and writer Harold McGee, one of the leading authorities on kitchen science. See:
Also: Public talks by world-class chefs
All of the future talks will be streamed LIVE. We will post videos of the talks online in the coming weeks. We are very pleased to offer these talks free to the community and are sorry that we cannot accommodate everyone who wants to attend.
September 5, 2010-January 20, 2011
CABINET OF CULINARY CURIOSITIES Neilson Library, Smith College, Northampton MA Morgan Gallery (1st floor) and Book Arts Gallery (3rd floor).
Six recipes for puff pastry from 1669 to 1970. Eating ice cream in France in the late 19th century. Dining with gladiatorial entertainment. These are just three of the offerings in Cabinet of Culinary Curiosities: Books & Manuscripts from the Mortimer Rare Book Room. Other items on display feature: a tribute to Julia Child and her fellow Smith College classmate, cooking teacher, and writer, Charlotte Turgeon; Jack Sprat and the space race; cooking and dining for kings, queens, and mice; and French opinions about Chinese food and table manners. Cabinet of Curiosities is on view in Neilson Library, Smith College, until January 20, 2011. This array of more than fifty culinary curiosities from books and manuscripts features images and descriptions of food and eating from the 16th through the 21st centuries. A cabinet of curiosities is a private collection of esoterica from the realms of natural history, geology, archaeology, religious relics, artwork, and antiquity. The classic style of these cabinets emerged in the 16th century as one or more rooms overflowing with fascinating objects.
Cabinet of Culinary Curiosities was created as a component of Table for Ten: The Art, History and Science of Food, a series of exhibitions and events organized for the fall of 2010 by Museums10, a group of museum and historical sites here in the Pioneer Valley. Most of the items in the exhibition are from the Mortimer Rare Book Room; a few gems have been borrowed from the Smith College Archives and the curator’s own culinary collection.
For more information on Cabinet of Culinary Curiosities: Barbara Blumenthal, Mortimer Rare Book Room (x2906; email@example.com)
Monday, November 1st at the Hotel Northampton in Northampton, MA."The French Connection: A Gala Tribute to Julia Child & Charlotte Turgeon"
This event, featuring panelists, food, videos, and more, is part of "Table for Ten: The Art, History and Science of Food," a series of exhibitions and events this fall in western Mass. "Table for Ten" has been organized by Museums10, a consortium of western Mass. museums and historic sites.
October 28–29, 2010 "Why Books?," at Radcliffe probes the form and function of the book in a rapidly changing media ecology. Speakers will examine the public-policy implications of new media forms and explore some of the major functions that we identify with books today. The Friday conference will be preceded by a series of Thursday afternoon workshops which will take speakers and preregistered participants on “site visits” to various local institutions, including a printing press, a conservation lab, a digital humanities center, and special collections of books and manuscripts. Barbara Wheaton and Marylène Altieri are offering a workshop titled “A Taste of History.” Registration is required by October 15. To learn more and to register, go to -- www.radcliffe.edu.
Through February 28, 2011
“Dinner is Served! Dining and the Decorative Arts” At Historic Deerfield. Explores the social, cultural and artistic importance of dining in early America. To learn more, go to -- www.historic-deerfield.org
Through March 20, 2011
“A Feast for the Eyes” At The Eric Carle Museum, Amherst. An exhibit exploring the role food plays throughout children’s literature.
Jennifer Pustz, who is one of the authors of America's Kitchens, published
by the Historic New England. will discuss the history of American's kitchens from the Colonial period to the present. Schlesinger library, Thursday Sept. 10, 6-8 p.m.
Tuesday, February 23, 6-8 p.m.
Andrew Coe, will trace the intriguing story of chop suey and America's centuries-long encounter with Chinese food. In his book: Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States, Mr. Coe tells how Americans went from believing that Chinese meals contained dogs and rats to making regular pilgrimages to the neighborhood chop suey parlor.
Along this journey, Mr. Coe shows how the peasant food of an obscure part of China came to dominate Chinese-American restaurants, unravels the truth of chop suey's origin, and shows how Nixon's 1972 trip to China opened our palates to a new world of cuisine. He also explains why we still can't get dishes like the ones restaurants serve in China. Most important, the book shows how larger historical forces - the belief in Manifest Destiny, the American assertion of military might in the Pacific, and the country's postWWII rise to superpower status - shape our tastes. Schlesinger library, Tuesday, Feb 23, 6-8 p.m.
Tuesday, March 23, 6-8 p.m.
Merry White, Professor of Anthropology at Boston University, will discuss coffee and cafes in Japan, the topic of her forthcoming book. Ms. White writes frequently as a journalist in several fields, including culinary studies.
She also works with Cambodian coffee farmers to help produce and sell their coffee
beans, particularly in Japan, as a project in community development. She presently is
engaged in research on urban social spaces and social change in Japan, particularly on the history of the cafe.
Her publications include Perfectly Japanese: Making Families in an Era of Upheaval; The Material Child: Coming of Age in Japan and America; The Japanese Educational
Challenge and The Japanese Overseas.
Schlesinger library, Tuesday, Mar 23, 6-8 p.m.
Wednesday, April 21, 6-8 p.m.
Stephen Cole and Lindy Gifford, Transformed from a wild fruit to a cultivated commodity, the American cranberry contains equal amounts of holiday symbolism and antioxidants. Its evolution over the past century is a surprising story of risk, enterprise, conflict, and the tension between tradition and innovation. In their book, The Cranberry: Hard Work and Holiday Sauce, Mr. Cole and Ms. Gifford harvest stories, images, and observations to tell the unusual tale of an American subculture dominated by this tart little red fruit. Stephen A. Cole directs the natural resources and sustainable communities programs at Coastal Enterprises, Inc., a community-development corporation. He is co-author of I Was Content and Not Content: The Story of Linda Lord and the Closing of Penobscot Poultry and The Rangeley and Its Region: The Famous Boat and Lakes of Western Maine. Lindy Gifford is an independent graphic designer and photographer. In addition to the book design for The Cranberry, she did much of the photography and historical research. She has also designed books for Tilbury House, Down East Books, WoodenBoat, and other publishers.
Ms. Riley will discuss the still life paintings of Luis Meléndez and what they tell us about the foods of 18th century Spain. A London resident, she contributes regularly to the Oxford Food Symposium.
Schlesinger library, Monday, May 3, 6-8 p.m.
Sunday, May 23, noon-3 p.m. Culinary Historians of Boston 2010 Banquet
This year, the annual banquet will continue our three-year-long theme of tracing the foods of the Triangular Trade. Last year’s banquet featured foods appropriate to a New England tavern in the 18th century. This year, the focus will be on the foods of the British Empire from 1650-1775. The banquet will take place in Mitton House at Newbury College on Sunday May 23, 2010, from noon until 3:00 pm. To learn more about the foods of this era or to share your knowledge, join the committee and get involved with the research, menu planning, and cooking that makes for a successful and lively event. More details will be announced at upcoming meetings and on the website. Meanwhile, mark your calendars and look forward to another fascinating banquet.